‘t Blaauwhooft (Hendrik Jonkerplein 1, Amsterdam) — A plain neighborhood brown cafe in the gentrified Westelijke Eilanden (Western Islands) district has been transformed into a great Dutch eetcafé by the simple expedient of adding a kitchen and a menu. It partakes of the villagey setting on these tranquil islands — which feel isolated despite a location just west of Centraal Station — and brings its own cozy atmosphere to the party. The clientele is drawn mainly from locals who can afford to occupy one of the bijou apartments in transformed old warehouses, yet who don’t want to look like it or to lose touch with their roots. There’s a nice sidewalk terrace on the square, though with an uninspiring view of trains coming and going into Centraal Station on the adjacent elevated rail line. The kitchen finds its comfort zone in Dutch standbys like Zeeland mussels, but runs to ostrich steak and some adventurous salads.